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基本説明
Fac simile d'un album d'échantillons de coton anglais du milieu du 18e siècle, rassemblés par John Holker, inspecteur général des manufactures françaises. Il est connu pour contenir les premiers exemples connus de toiles de jean.
Le fac simile est accompagné d'une dizaine d'études menées par des chercheurs et conservateurs de musée.
Full Description
In 1751, John Holker (1719-1786), an English textile manufacturer exiled in France, undertook an industrial espionage mission to England to collect samples of English textiles on behalf of the French king, Louis XV. On his return, the samples were assembled in a manuscript volume, which is now preserved at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Each sample in this album is accompanied by a handwritten technical description specifying the quality of the fabric, its price, its dimensions and the manufacturing processes. This album is famous for preserving the oldest identifiable samples of jean fabric.
Completely bilingual, the book includes a facsimile reproduction of the album, accompanied by a transcription of its handwritten text and a dozen essays. The essays, written by academics, curators and specialists from France, Britain, and North America, explore the album from various angles: the globalisation of commerce, the slave trade, industrial espionage, economic rivalry between France and England, the taste for cotton and its role in the history of fashion, etc. The book demonstrates the importance of centuries-old links between France and the United Kingdom and is an indispensable work of reference for the history of textiles.
Text in English and French.
Contents
ESSAYS
John Holker and the making of the Livre d'échantillons. By Ariane Fennetaux & John Styles
The Holker album and Lancashire cotton textiles. By John Styles
John Holker, an entrepreneur at Rouen. By Serge Chassagne
John Holker as inspector of manufactures. By Philippe Minard
The chemistry of colours circa 1750. By Liliane Hilaire-Pérez
John Holker, technical innovation and the hot cylinder press. By Philip A. Sykas
The Holker album in a global context. By Giorgio Riello
Chintz, cambric, and a counterfeit silk handkerchief: printed textiles in the Holker album. By John Styles
Deep blue, fiery red, and apricot yellow: colour, imperial markets and the global textile trade. By Beverly Lemire
And cotton became fashionable. By Denis Bruna
The English origin of jeans. By Pascale Gorguet Ballesteros
FACSIMILE OF THE HOLKER ALBUM
APPENDICES
Translation of the transcription
Technical analysis
Glossary
Bibliography
Index
List of illustrations
