Full Description
The New York jewellery firm of Marcus & Co. (1892-1942) created exceptional examples of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery for an art-loving, wealthy elite. Innovative in their collaboration with contemporary artists, and in their captivating window displays and advertisements, the firm captured the imagination of Gilded Age families such as the Rockefellers. This volume chronicles their story, from the founder's apprenticeship in Dresden to the firm's grand premises on Fifth Avenue neighbouring Tiffany and Cartier. The triumphs and tragedies of three generations of Marcus jewellers, both artistic and entrepreneurial, are presented here together with exquisite jewellery and archival design drawings spanning 50 years.
Contents
Foreword
7 Acknowledgments
9 Notes to the Reader
11 PART I:
BIRTH OF A FAMILY BUSINESS
13 Early Days in Germany, 1828-1850
16 Arrival in New York: Tiffany & Co. and Ball,
Black & Co., 1850-1863
23 Foundation and Dissolution of Starr & Marcus,
1864-1877
47 Return to Tiffany & Co. and Establishing
Jaques & Marcus, 1878-1892
67 Transition to Marcus & Co., 1892
75 PART II:
MARCUS & CO., THE SECOND
GENERATION
77 Early Days of Marcus & Co., and the Arts and
Crafts Exhibitions, 1892-1899
86 Design Drawings: The Emergence of Signature
Styles
112 Early Jewels in Their Signature Styles,
1899-1906
151 Success and Stability: The Third Generation
Joins the Firm, 1906-1917
159 The Evolution of Their Signature Styles,
1906-1917
197 Transition to Third Generation Leadership,
1917-1925
211 PART III:
BUILDING A MODERN BUSINESS
213 William E. Marcus Jr., New President and
Innovator, 1925-1929
240 Navigating the Great Depression, 1931-1935
254 The Final Flowering: The Jonker Diamond,
the International Flower Style, and the
New York World's Fair, 1937-1939
283 The End Game and Transition to Gimbels
285 Family Developments and William's Golden
Years, 1942-1970
295 APPENDICES
296 APPENDIX I
Selected Marks & Signatures
298 APPENDIX II
The Society of Arts and Crafts, Boston,
Exhibitions 1897 and 1899
300 Selected Bibliography
303 Index
