Full Description
Although less well known than its much-admired counterparts in Peru and Bolivia, highland Ecuadorian weaving is an Andean tradition that has relationships with these more southern areas. A world away from the industrialized textile manufacturing of Euro-American society, these handmade pieces reflect the history and artistry of an ancient culture.
This comprehensive study, edited by Ann Pollard Rowe, is unrivaled in its detail and includes not only descriptions of the indigenous weaving and dyeing technology, but also an interpretation of its historical significance, as well as hundreds of photographs, drawings, and maps that inform the understanding of the process.
The principal focus is on backstrap-loom weaving, a major pre-Hispanic technology. Ecuadorian backstrap looms, which differ in various ways from those found elsewhere in the Andes, have previously only been treated in general terms. Here, the basic operation of this style of loom is covered, as are a variety of patterning techniques including warp-resist (ikat) dyeing, weaving belts with twill, and supplementary- and complementary-warp patterning. Spanish colonial treadle-loom weaving is also covered. The weaving techniques are explained in detail, so the reader can replicate them if desired.
Textiles have been an important art form among Andean peoples from remote prehistory up to the present. A greater understanding of their creation process can yield a more meaningful appreciation of the art itself.
Contents
Preface
Acknowledgments
Introduction: The Land and the People (Ann P. Rowe and Lynn A. Meisch)
1. Plain Weave on the Backstrap Loom
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Poncho Weaving in PualÓ, Cotopaxi Province (Laura M. Miller)
The Vertical Loom in Carchi Province (Ann P. Rowe)
2. Warp-Resist-Patterned Wool Ponchos and Blankets
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Ponchos in Chordeleg, Azuay Province (Lynn A. Meisch)
Blankets in Quero, Tungurahua Province (Laura M. Miller)
Blankets in PungalÁ, Eastern Chimborazo Province (Ann P. Rowe and Laura M. Miller)
Poncho Rosado in Paniquindra, Eastern Imbabura Province (Laura M. Miller)
3. Warp-Resist-Patterned Cotton Shawls and Ponchos
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Macanas in Rumipamba de las Rosas, Cotopaxi Province (Laura M. Miller)
PaÑos in the Gualaceo Area, Azuay Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Kokomuro Poncho in Cacha Obraje, Central Chimborazo Province (Laura M. Miller and Ann P. Rowe)
4. Belts with Supplementary-Warp Patterning
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by a Second Heddle Rod (with Pickup), Salasaca, Tungurahua Province (Laura M. Miller)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by a Second Heddle Rod (with Pickup), Saraguro, Loja Province (Ann P. Rowe and Lynn A. Meisch)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by a Second Heddle Rod (with Pickup), MolobÓg, Eastern Chimborazo Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by a Second Heddle Rod (with Pickup), NitÓn, Tungurahua Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by a Second Shed Stick (with Pickup), Collage, Cotopaxi Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by Second Shed Stick (with Pickup), Antonio Cando Camuendo, La CompaÑÍa, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by Second Shed Stick (with Pickup), Natabuela, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by Second Shed Stick (with Pickup), Carlos ConterÓn, IlumÁn, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Controlled by Second Shed Stick (with Pickup), Chibuleo, Tungurahua Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Entirely Loom Controlled, Bar Design, Collage, Cotopaxi Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Entirely Loom Controlled, Miguel Andrango, Agato, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Entirely Loom Controlled, JosÉ Manuel Bautista, Agato, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Supplementary Warp Entirely Loom Controlled, Cacha, Central Chimborazo Province (Ann P. Rowe)
5. Turn-Banded 2/1 Twill Belts
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
La CompaÑÍa, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
Nitiluisa, Central Chimborazo Province (Ann P. Rowe and Laura M. Miller)
6. 2/1 Herringbone Complementary-Warp Weave Ponchos of the Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Ann P. Rowe)
7. 3/1 Alternating Complementary-Warp Weave Belts
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Banderilla Belt in Paniquindra, Eastern Imbabura Province (Laura M. Miller)
KawiÑa Belt in Central Chimborazo Province (Laura M. Miller)
CaÑari Belts, CaÑar Province (Laura M. Miller and Ann P. Rowe)
8. Treadle-Loom Weaving
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Santa Teresita, Northern Chimborazo Province (Ann P. Rowe and Laura M. Miller)
Salasaca, Tungurahua Province (Laura M. Miller and Ann P. Rowe)
Belt Weaving in Ariasucu, Otavalo Area, Imbabura Province (Lynn A. Meisch and Rudi Colloredo-Mansfield)
9. Natural Dyeing Techniques
Introduction (Ann P. Rowe)
Walnut (Ann P. Rowe)
Indigo (Ann P. Rowe and Lynn A. Meisch)
Cochineal in Salasaca, Tungurahua Province (Ann P. Rowe and Laura M. Miller)
Conclusions (Ann P. Rowe)
Notes
Glossary
References Cited
Contributors
Index
