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Full Description
'Me not belong in the mountains? Why, I couldn't go on living without them! My thoughts, my dreams, my whole life were nothing but the mountains!'
In 1953 Hermann Buhl made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat - the ninth-highest mountain in the world, and the third 8,000-metre peak to be climbed, following Annapurna and Everest. It was one of the most incredible and committed climbs ever made.
Continuing alone and without supplementary oxygen, Buhl made a dash for the summit after his partners turned back. On a mountain that had claimed thirty-one lives, an exhausted Buhl waded through deep snow and climbed over technical ground to reach the summit, driven on by an 'irresistible urge'. After a night spent standing on a small ledge at over 8,000 metres, Buhl returned forty-one hours later, exhausted and at the very limit of his endurance.
Written shortly after Buhl's return from the mountain, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage is a classic of mountaineering literature that has inspired thousands of climbers. It follows Buhl's inexorable rise from rock climber to alpinist to mountaineer, until, almost inevitably, he makes his phenomenal Nanga Parbat climb. Buhl's book, and ascent, reminded everyone that, while the mountains could never be conquered, they could be climbed with sufficient enthusiasm, spirit and dedication.
Contents
Translator's introduction
Introduction to the 1998 edition
About the author
In the mountains of North Tyrol
'They'll never make a climber of me'
A lesson from death
End of an Alpine apprenticeship
Grade VI - in the limestone cliffs
Three routes on the Schusselkar
The dying mountain - the north wall of the Praxmarerkarspitze
Head-first to life
The extreme edge of the abyss - the Mauk west wall
Straight on up - the Laliderer wall
Change of occupation - the ski-racer
Avalanches, plaster casts and a hint of spring
The Dolomite fairyland
Smuggler's journey into Fairyland
Once in a lifetime - Goldkappel south wall
The north-east wall of the Furchetta
A climb on probation
Ice-glazed rock, waterfalls and stones
The Royal Wall of the Civetta
Winter training
In the hell of a blizzard - Schusselkar wall
Twenty-five summits in thirty-three hours
The cold arete
In the ice of the Western Alps
The wall of ice and grit
The north wall of the Triolet
Only eight hours - but productive!
Christmas on the precipices
Climbing on steeples
Turned down by the Jorasses
Dreams come true
Thunder on the Aiguille Noire
A storm on the Monarch
The south-west wall of the Marmolada, in winter
Down a crevasse and an Alpine wager
The buttress of the Grandes Jorasses
Fifteen peaks at one bite
The Matterhorn and a flagon of wine
Gymnastics on rock - the north wall of the Western Zinne
A climber went a-wooing
We had to bivouac after all - on the Tofana buttress
Badile - north-east wall
Preparation for a great objective
The mountain crucible - Eiger north wall
The daily round intervenes
Alone on a winter's night - east wall of the Watzmann
Nanga Parbat
Below 26,000 feet
Above 26,000 feet
Epilogue - A year later.
