Full Description
First published in 2013, Queer Style was ahead of its time. It was the first book to address the cultural, political, and material histories of clothes as signs and markers of gender and sexual identity, and remains key reading for scholars and students across fashion studies and the humanities more broadly. Now, 10 years later, the authors have revisited their classic work and updated it to examine the function of subcultural dress within queer communities and the mannerisms and messages that are used as signifiers of identity.
Contents
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction
1. The Meaning of Style Between Classic and Queer
Winckelmann and the Suppressed Homoerotism in Modernist style
A Selective History of Non-queer, Standard, Straight and Classic dressing
2.. Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes
Mannish Lesbians and Salon Dandies
Lesbian Bar Culture of the Forties and Fifties
Feminist Androgyny and Anti Style
Cross Dressing and Androgynous Style
Designer Dykes and Lesbian Chic
Lesbian Visibility in the Twentieth Century
3. Designer Dykes and Lesbian Visibility
The L Word and Generation Q
Lesbian Chic
The Pleasures of Looking. Lesbians in film and media
Hip Hop Lesbian Style
4. Early Modern Gay Men's Styles
Macaroni's and Fops
Dandies and Aesthetes. The Early Days of Queer Style
Wilde, Posing, and the 'Birth' of Homosexuality
Paris Dandies, Aesthetes and Decadents
5. Modern and Contemporary Gay Men's Styles
The Years Pending World War II
Artistic Bent. Warhol, Glam and Pop
Gay Activism and Gay pride
Contemporary Queer: Hard to Say
6. Kiss of the Whip. Bondage, Discipline and Sado-Masochism, or BDSM Style
Military Uniforms and the Gestapo
Clips, Clamps Leather, and Accessories
The Mainstreaming of BDSM
7. Drag Kings and Queens
Dames and Queens
Drag and Artistic Practice
Drag as Politics
Drag Balls
Kinging and Club Culture
RuPaul Supermodel
8. Trans* and Fluid Style
By Way of a Geneology
Against Categorization
Transgender Celebrity
Fluid Fashion and Style
9. Crossing Genders, Crossing Cultures
Japanese Dandy Style
Albanian Sworn Virgins
The Hijra: An Alternative Gender Role in India
Fa'fafine and Polynesian Gender Crossing
Two Spirit First Nation
Kathoey and Tom Boys of Thailand
Conclusion: Against Justification
Bibliography
Index
