Full Description
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is an introduction to the science of waves and oceanography from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and helps surfers to learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it, just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Contents
1) Introduction; 2) Large-scale Air Movements; 3) Formation of a Depression; 4) Growth of Waves on the Ocean; 5) Propagation of Free-travelling Swell; 6) Waves in Shallow Water; 7) Wave-breaking; 8) The Temperature of the Water; 9) Local Winds on the Coast; 10) The Tides; 11) Rips; 12) Forecasting 1: Basics; 13) Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box; 14) Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm; Further Reading; Glossary-Index; Acknowledgements
