Full Description
The first in the four-part series Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing as seen on the street and in museums, in films and literature, and in advertisements and magazines, this volume features a close-up focus on accessories-the shoe, the hat, the necklace-intimately connected to the body.
These essays, most of which have appeared in the cutting-edge Italian series Abito e IdentitÀ, offer new theoretical and historical takes on the role of clothing, dress, and accessories in the construction of the modern subject. With contributions by leading scholars in art history, semiotics, literary and film studies, history and fashion studies, and with additional writings by psychoanalysts, textile artists, and fashion designers from Europe and America, readers will encounter a dizzying array of ideas about the modern body and the ways in which we dress it.
From perspectives on the "model body" to Sonia Delaunay's designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women's prescribed ways of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck's anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo's sandals, from a poet's tiara to a worker's cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow star: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how much the most modest accessory might reveal.
Contributors: ZsÓfia BÁn, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, Los Angeles; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome "La Sapienza"; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome "La Sapienza"; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome Three; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of New Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome Three; Franca Zoccoli.
Contents
Preface and Acknowledgments
Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade
Introduction: Accessorizing the Modern(ist) Body, by Cristina Giorcelli
1. No Frills, No-Body, Nobody, by Manuela Fraire
2. The Cult of Femininity, Micol Fontana, conversing with Cristina Giorcelli
3. Fashion's Model Bodies: A Genealogy, by Paola Colaiacomo
4. Wearing the Body over the Dress: Sonia Delaunay's Fashionable Clothes, by Cristina Giorcelli
5. Futurist Accessories, by Franca Zoccoli
6. Coco, Zelda, Sara, Daisy, and Nicole: Accessories for New Ways of Being a Woman, by Martha Banta
7. Precious Objects: Laura Riding, Her Tiara, and the Petrarchan Muse, by Becky Peterson
8. Spanish Women's Clothing during the Long Postwar Period (1937-1950), by Giuliana Di Febo
9. The Yellow Star Accessorized: Ironic Discourse in Fatelessness by Imre Kertész, by Zsófia Bán
10. Terra Divisa/Terra Divina (T/E/A/R), by Maria Damon
11. Black Hattitude, by Jeffrey C. Stewart
12. Barbara Stanwyck's Anklet: The Other Shoe, by Paula Rabinowitz
13. Fetishizing the Goods in the Cinematic Jewel, by Vito Zagarrio
14. Enchanted Sandals: Italian Shoes and the Post-World War II International Scene, by Vittoria C. Caratozzolo
Conclusion: In Closing/Close Clothing, by Paula Rabinowitz
Contributors
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