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Full Description
A richly illustrated exploration of fashion and its capacity for generating controversy and constructing social and individual identities
Clothing matters. This basic axiom is both common sense and, in another way, radical. It is from this starting point that Michelle Liu Carriger elucidates the interconnected ways in which gender, sexuality, class, and race are created by the everyday act of getting dressed. Theatricality of the Closet: Fashion, Performance, and Subjectivity between Victorian Britain and Meiji Japan examines fashion and clothing controversies of the nineteenth century, drawing on performance theory to reveal how the apparently superficial or frivolous deeply affects the creation of identity.
By interrogating a set of seemingly disparate examples from the same period but widely distant settings—Victorian Britain and Meiji-era Japan—Carriger disentangles how small, local, ordinary practices became enmeshed in a global fabric of cultural and material surfaces following the opening of trade between these nations in 1850. This richly illustrated book presents an array of media, from conservative newspapers and tabloids to ukiyo-e and early photography, that locate dress as a site where the individual and the social are interwoven, whether in the 1860s and 1870s or the twenty-first century.
Contents
Acknowledgements
List of Abbreviations
Chapter One. "Tissue of Quotations": Fashion and Subjectivity
Chapter Two. "Typical Modern Amazon": Freaks of Fashion, Newspaper Nightmares, and the Girl of the Period
Chapter Three. "Extraordinary Revelations of the Hermaphrodite Clique": Boulton and Park and the Theatre Defense
Chapter Four. "Great Mirrors": Redressing Nation, Gender, and Modernity in Meiji Japan
Chapter Five. "Returning to the Real Me": Gothic Lolita Self-Fashioning
Notes
Bibliography
Index