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Full Description
Winner, Silver Award, IBPA Book Awards
Banff Mountain Literature Award Finalist
"A vividly engaging blend of adventure travel memoir, wilderness documentary, and climate crisis expose." -- 5280 Magazine
An award-winning author and photographer returns to the Arctic to document the effects of climate change.
Forty years ago, the park ranger Jon Waterman took his first journey into the Alaskan Arctic, to the Noatak headwaters. He was astonished by the abundant wildlife, the strange landscape, and its otherworldly light—how the "frequent rain showers glow like lemonade poured out of the sky." Taken with a new sense of wonder, he began to explore the North on several trips in the 1980s.
After a 30-year absence from the Noatak, he returned with his son in 2021. Amid a now-flooded river missing the once-plentiful caribou, he was shocked and heartbroken by the changes. The following year, in 2022, he took one final journey "into the thaw" to document—for this lushly illustrated and scholarly book—the environmental and cultural changes wrought by the climate crisis.
A widely published author and photographer, Waterman's narrative alternates between adventure and wilderness memoir and plainly stated natural history of the area. Chased by bears, sometimes alone for weeks on end amid hordes of mosquitoes, he notes the extraordinary changes from 1983 until the present day: brush grown over the tundra in a phenomenon called Greening of the Arctic, tear-drop-shaped landslide thaw slumps—a.k.a. thermokarsts—caused by thawing permafrost, and an increasing loss of sea ice as he travels along the Chukchi and Beaufort Seas. The author also spends time with the kindhearted, welcoming Inuit or Inupiat most affected by the Arctic crisis, who share how their age-old culture has attempted to cope with "the thaw." Stricken by the change, Waterman paints an intimate portrait of both the villages and the little-visited landscape, because "it's high time that we truly understand the Arctic." He writes, "Lest we forget what it once was."
Through his quest for wonder—in prose illuminated by humility and humor—Waterman shows how the Arctic can confer grace on those who pass through. Despite the unfolding crisis, as a narrative of hope, at the book's end he suggests actions we can all take to slow the thaw and preserve what is left of this remarkable, vast frontier.
Contents
Contents
Prologue: A Certain Type of Fun, July 10-12, 2022
Part I: Schooled, Prehistoric Times-Present Day
Chapter 1: An Arctic Primer, 2.4 billion years ago-2022
Chapter 2: The Noatak River, August 1983
Chapter 2½: Barren Ground Grizzlies, 1984
Chapter 3: A Qallunaat's Education, 1997
Chapter 3½: Birds, 1997-1999
Chapter 4: Arctic Solitaire, Spring and Summer 1998
Chapter 4½: One Who Gave Power, September 1999
Chapter 5: Refuge, Summer 2006
Chapter 5½: Shocked Return, August 2021
Part II: The Final Journey, 2022
Chapter 6: A Short Walk Over the Brooks Range, July 12-15
Chapter 6½: Wildfires July 16
Chapter 7: Downriver, July 17-21
Chapter 7½: Thermokarst Landslide, July 22
Chapter 8: The Bearded Ones, July 23-26
Chapter 8½: Salmon, July 27
Chapter 9: Nautaaq, July 28-August 1
Chapter 9½: Kotzebue, August 2
Chapter 10: Journey's End at Kivalina, August 3-10
Appendix: Climate Crisis Predictions / How to Take Action
