基本説明
This book is the rich and absorbing narrative and analysis of how New York's emergent style became expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women, and how it tapped into both metropolitan Americanness and the America of wide-open spaces.
Full Description
From the end of the 1930s through the 1940s, the New York fashion industry came into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its sporting origins to include simple casual wear for town and country, travel and leisure, was at the centre of this shift. Sportwear provided busy career women, college girls and housewives with clothes that could be worn on all occasions.Drawing on a wonderful array of sources, from fashion magazines to department store records, this book is the rich and absorbing narrative and analysis of how New York sportswear evolved to become the definitive American style and how a modern fashion aesthetic was born. The story that unfolds reveals, with the aid of some wonderful illustrations, how New York's emergent style became dynamic and modern, like the city itself, expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women; and how it tapped into both metropolitan Americanness and the America of wide-open spaces.It explores the designers, such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser, themselves embodiments of the modern, active woman, and how they gave middle class American women New York sportswear as an alternative to Parisian-inspired designs.
It looks for the first time at how its style connected not just to ideals of patriotism and democracy, but to current notions of cleanliness and hygiene, and for example, to 1930s theories of body image, and contemporary dance.
Contents
Contents 3
List of Illustrations 4
Acknowledgements 16
Introduction 17
Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear
New York City 61
Sportswear 84
Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I 102
Chapter Two: American Body Culture
Body Image/Body Culture 119
Health and Hygiene 132
Exercise and Dance 147
Sports Body 164
Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry
During the Depression
Effects of the Depression 189
Career Women 207
Fashion Group 226
Chapter Four: Sportswear's Promotion During the 1930s
New York Department Stores 240
Fashion Media 259
The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s 279
Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry
During the Second World War
Effects of the Second World War 298
Sportswear Design and Representation 222
Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II 237
Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer
The American Look 372
New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism 394
The Woman of Fashion 1947 414
Conclusion 431
Bibliography 456
Index
