Full Description
The study of men's fashion has evolved from an emerging subject to a dynamic and growing field, intersecting with critical conversations on gender, race, sexuality, disability, colonialism, and globalization.
The Handbook of Men's Fashion pushes beyond conventional narratives by centering three guiding approaches: decentralizing and decolonizing men's fashion studies, global viewpoints, and intersectionality. With 34 chapters from fashion and dress scholars, the collection offers a uniquely progressive perspective on the field's development.
Divided into six sections—Theoretical Perspectives, People and Bodies, Places, Objects and Products, Promotions and Business, and Popular Culture—the book examines how masculinity is fashioned, contested, and expressed across time and space. Topics range from national dress and subcultural style to queer and disabled masculinities, luxury branding, and digital fashion communities. By centering histories and communities that have been marginalized in previous scholarship, the chapters collectively expand the boundaries of men's fashion studies.
Rather than providing a definitive account, The Handbook of Men's Fashion serves as an invitation to rethink the field, interrogate absences, and imagine new possibilities. It is an essential resource for scholars, students, and industry professionals invested in the past, present, and future of men's fashion.
The main audience for this book is academic, but it will also appeal to fashion practitioners, curators, and cultural critics, and to general readers interested in the history, culture, and meaning of men's fashion and dress.
Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1: Negotiating Masculine Gender with Dress: Moving Beyond the Binary
Andrew Reilly and Jenifer K. McGuire
Chapter 2: Little Boy Blue
Jo Barraclough Paoletti
Chapter 3: Globalized Masculinities in Latin American National Costumes
José Blanco F. and Raúl J Vázquez-López
Chapter 4: Redressing rituals: Writing South African men's fashion as sites of decolonial praxis
Lesiba Mabitsela and Erica de Greef
Chapter 5: Blurring the Binary: Masculinity in Drag Performers' Costumes
Olivia Baker and Julie Hillery
Chapter 6: From Schnorrer to Parvenu: Jews, Tailoring and the Performance of Respectability
Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum
Chapter 7: Genderless Sizing
Lynn Boorady
Chapter 8: From Circumference to Size: Tailoring the Fat Man in America, 1820-1920
Lauren Downing Peters and Chloe Chapin
Chapter 9: "Dress for the Body You Have": Revealing the Infallible Realness of Men's Bodies through Queer Eye
Ashley Morgan
Chapter 10: 'You Just Go With It - You Slowly Move With It': Social Performance of Older Male Bodies Through Fashion and Clothing
Ania Sadkowska
Chapter 11: The Subversive Style of André Leon Talley
Jason Cyrus
Chapter 12: Fashion and the Devil's Railroad: Masculinity, Migration and Modernities in the Brazilian Amazon
Dr Elizabeth Kutesko
Chapter 13: Fresh Out the Box: Sneakers and Shifting Masculinities
Elizabeth Semmelhack
Chapter 14: Border Crossing: Contemporary Russian Fashion Photography and The Queering of Men's Style
Graham H. Roberts, Paris Nanterre University
Chapter 15: A Fashion Investigation of the Silent Chinese Hipsters
Leren Li
Chapter 16: Haute Headhunter: The Development of a New Traditional Dress for Indigenous Men in North Borneo
Daniel James Cole
Chapter 17: Styling Gay Men in the West Shaun Cole
Chapter 18: Masculinities and Men's Accessories in Turkey: Differentiations and Intersections of Religion and Political Ideologies Nazli Alimen
Chapter 19: Conspicuous Waist: Making and modifying the eighteenth-century men's waistcoat
Peter McNeil
Chapter 20: Bottom Up: The Jockstrap as contradictory signifier of male potency and vulnerability
Änne Söll/Christian Wandhoff
Chapter 21: Trousers, Pants, and Hose Jay McCauley Bowstead
Chapter 22: The Scottish Kilt
David Loranger
Chapter 23: The Shirt That Says 'Aloha' Marcia A. Morgado
Chapter 24: Queer Crip Masculinities: Embodied Dressing/Making and the Reimagining of Disabled Masculinities
Ben Barry and Philippa Nesbitt
Chapter 25: 'African Menswear Design: Fashion-scapes and Dress Innovations' Victoria L. Rovine, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Chapter 26: Encoding Cultural Meaning:Gender Performativity in the Fragrance Space
Miranda Gordon
Chapter 27: Suit Up: Branding White-Collar Masculinity Myles Ethan Lascity
Chapter 28: Body doubles: Men's Tailoring and the Origins of the Fashion Mannequin Alison Matthews David
Chapter 29: Dress, Style and Masculinities in American Cinema Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
Chapter 30: Emerging Binaries and Queering Bodies Hannah Liebreich and Sadie Lynch
Chapter 31: Men's Street Style at Fashion Week as Photographic and Representational Practice
Rebecca Halliday
Chapter 32: Hybrid Dandyism and Construction of Masculinity in Modern Korea:
Ko Hui-dong (1885-1965) and Lee Quede (1913-1965) Kyunghee Pyun, Fashion Institute of Technology
Chapter 33: Online Menswear Communities
Nathaniel Weiner
Chapter 34: Men's Dress in Popular Romance Novels Jonathan Allan
Notes on Contributors
Index
