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Full Description
All the dressmaking techniques you need, explained simply for easy, professional-looking results.
This definitive how-to book features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to specialist couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take your garment-making skills to a new level.
Dip in and out, or work through the book in order:
Step 1: KIT - discover the essential equipment you need, with in-depth advice on choosing threads, needles and haberdashery;
Step 2: PREP - choose the right fabric for every project; understand dressmaking patterns; learn how to accurately measure; and learn how to adapt every pattern to suit your shape;
Step 3: MAKE - easy-to-follow instructions for every key technique, from seams and pockets to yokes and waistbands;
Step 4: STRETCH - understand knit fabric: how to stabilize it, how to work with it, and how to finish your hems and seams;
Step 5: FINISH - it's all in the detail, so discover how to give every garment a professional finish with accurate facings, hems and linings.
A beautifully presented technique-resource that includes tools, techniques and troubleshooting, this is a guide for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further.
Author Jules Fallon runs a hugely popular and over-subscribed series of dressmaking classes, which means she knows exactly the techniques that everyone gets stuck on. She brings her neat tricks and sage advice to all aspects of the book, and especially to the 'Help!' features: troubleshooting fixes for the real-world mistakes that are part of our dressmaking experience.
Previously published as Complete Guide to Dressmaking (9781782215721).
Contents
Meet Jules Fallon 8
CHAPTER 1: KIT 10
Essential equipment 12
Needle know-how 15
Cutting it 18
Machine anatomy 20
Sewing machine feet 22
Choosing your thread 24
Dressmaking haberdashery 26
CHAPTER 2: PREP 28
Understanding fabrics 30 - Woven p. 31, Silks p. 32, Wools and wool mixes p. 33, Knitted p. 34, Bonded p. 34, Special-occasion 35Choosing fabrics 36
Interfacing 38
Fabric preparation 39
Pattern envelope information 40
Understanding pattern symbols 44
Measuring 46
Size charts and measurements 48
Making a fitted toile 50
Laying out the paper pattern 54 - What pattern pieces do you need? 54, How to follow a layplan 55, Working with patterned fabrics 57
Pinning and cutting fabric 60 - Marking fabric 62
Adapting a pattern 64
CHAPTER 3: MAKE 68
Pressing matters 70
Creating shape 72 - Darts 72, Gathering 76, Pleats and tucks 79, Shirring 86
Seams 88 - Finishing seams 94
Pockets 98 - In-seam pocket 98, Patch pocket 100, Welt pocket 102, Jetted pocket 105, Western-style pocket 108, Cargo pocket 110
Openings and closures 114 - Placket opening 114, Continuous-bound opening 116, Centre-back vent 118, Buttons and buttonholes 120, Hooks and eyes 126, Press studs 127
Zips 128 - Centred zip 128, Fly zip 130, Lapped zip 133, Concealed zip 136, Concealed zip with a facing 138, Lapped zip with a facing 140, Exposed zip with a facing 143
Sleeves 146 - Set-in sleeve 148, Two-piece sleeve 150, Raglan sleeve 152, Shirt sleeve 154
Cuffs 156 - Shirt cuff 156, French cuff 158
Collars 159 - Shirt collar 160, Peter Pan collar 166, Convertible collar 168, Shawl collar 172
Yokes 176 - Double yoke 176
Waistbands 178 - Straight waistband 179, Curved waistband 182, Belt loops 184, Elastic casing 185
Decorative features 188 - Bias strips 188, Piping 191, Rouleau cord 194, Inserting lace 197, Frills and flounces 198, Topstitching 200
CHAPTER 4: STRETCH 202
Stretch fabric characteristics 204 - Why knit is different to woven fabric 204, Different types of knit fabric 206, Elastic and stabilisers 209
Working with stretch fabric 212 - You don't need an overlocker 212, Edge finishes for necklines and armholes 213, Hemming and using a twin needle 217
CHAPTER 5: FINISH 220
Bound edges 222 - Positioning the bias strip 222, Attaching the bias strip 223, Finishing the bias strip 224
Facings 226 - Neck facing 226, Waist facing 228, All-in-one facing 230
Understitching and edge stitching 232 - Understitching 232, Edge stitching 233
Hems 234 - Hand sewing 235, Machine sewing 238
Linings 242 - Skirt lining 243, Bodice or dress lining 246
Resources 248
Glossary 250
Index 252
Credits 256
