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Full Description
So you've made a basic shirt or two and you are looking for more options and directions... Well, you are in luck!
David Page Coffin, author of Shirtmaking, a complete guide to the dress shirt, is back to help you with an amazing collection of custom detail patterns and ideas for men's and women's sport, knit, dress, and even simple coat and jacket shirt styles!
Inside you'll find helpful guides to drafting or draping a custom pattern, copying or converting a favorite pattern or garment into a more basic pattern ready for customizing to your heart's content, mastering four different placket types so you can use these classic structures in ways you never imagined, understanding and reinventing most any sort of shirt and coat collar type in common use, along with how to construct them all, whether you want a couture creation or a workshop coverall.
You'll get an introduction to digital pattern-making and alteration, a close-up and thorough look inside a closetful of classic shirt-type garments, explore a host of pocket and cuff options and have access to dozens of full-size detail and even full garment patterns for printing and customizing.
And, of course, you'll learn how to finally turn those collar points all the way out like you've always wanted. The Shirtmaking Workbook includes extensive lists and links to further reading, supplies, and references to help make your custom shirtmaking easier and more masterful. With this unique and comprehensive workbook by your side, you'll never wonder how to make THAT shirt again.
Contents
Introduction 6
Chapter 1 Block Logic 12What is a Block? 13
Shirt Block Categories 13
Where to Get Your Block(s) 14
Blocks within Blocks 14
Fitting 18
Drafting 19
Draping 20
Copying a Shirt 22
General Pattern Skills 24
Tools 24
Digital Tools 26
Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28
Resources 30Chapter 2 Skills and Structures 32 Sewing without Pins 34
Stitching Seams 36
Turn a Better Point 38
Placket Origami 41
Convertible Collar Options 44
Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46
Resources 48Chapter 3 The Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block 50 The Dress Shirt 51
Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52
Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56
Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58
Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men's & Turnbull & Asser Women's (70)
Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74
Resources 76Chapter 4 The Sport/Work (or Loose-Fitting) Shirt Block 82 The Sport Shirt 83
Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84
Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)
Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96
Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)
Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116
Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118
Resources 120Chapter 5 The Knit (or Stretch Fabric) Shirt Block 122 Featured Garment: Da Vinci Polyester Knit Combo 124
Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126
Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128
Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130
Resources 132Chapter 6 The Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block 134 Featured Garment: Swanndri Wool Bush Shirt 136
Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138
Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140
Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142
Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144
Resources 146Chapter 7 The Shirt-Jacket (or Oversized) Block 148 Featured Garment: Pendleton Men's 49er 150
Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)
Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160
Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)
Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168
Resources 170Acknowledgments 172
About the Author 172
Index 173
