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Full Description
Why is our sense of smell so under-appreciated? We tend to think of smell as a vestigial remnant of our pre-human past, doomed to gradual extinction, and we go to great lengths to eliminate smells from our environment, suppressing body odour, bad breath and other smells. Living in a relatively odour-free environment has numbed us to the importance that smells have always had in human history and culture.
In this major new book Robert Muchembled restores smell to its rightful place as one of our most important senses and examines the transformation of smells in the West from the Renaissance to the beginning of the 19th century. He shows that in earlier centuries, the air in towns and cities was often saturated with nauseating emissions and dangerous pollution. Having little choice but to see and smell faeces and urine on a daily basis, people showed little revulsion; until the 1620s, literature and poetry delighted in excreta which now disgust us. The smell of excrement and body odours were formative aspects of eroticism and sexuality, for the social elite and the popular classes alike. At the same time, medicine explained outbreaks of plague by Satan's poisonous breath corrupting the air. Amber, musk and civet came to be seen as vital bulwarks against the devil's breath: scents were worn like armour against the plague. The disappearance of the plague after 1720 and the sharp decline in fear of the devil meant there was no longer any point in using perfumes to fight the forces of evil, paving the way for the olfactory revolution of the 18th century when softer, sweeter perfumes, often with floral and fruity scents, came into fashion, reflecting new norms of femininity and a gentler vision of nature.
This rich cultural history of an under-appreciated sense will be appeal to a wide readership.
Contents
Table of Contents
Table of illustrations
Introduction
Chapter one: Our unique sense of smell
Is science always objective?
A sense of danger, emotions, and delight
Chapter 2: A Pervasive stench
The foul air of medieval towns
Urban cess pits
The smell of profit
Pollutant trades
Countryside smells
Chapter three: Joyous matter
A scholarly culture of scatology
Aromatic blasons
Humour in the conte
The Way to Succeed
Odorous wind
Chapter four: Scent of a woman
Demonising the smell of women
When ladies did not smell of roses
At arm's length
Guilty women
A breath of eroticism
The gutter press
A literary stink
Death and the old woman
Demonic pleasure
Chapter five: The Devil's breath
Venomous vapours
Plague-ridden towns
Perfume as armour
Perfumed rituals
Rue, vinegar and tobacco
Pomanders
Chapter six: Musky scents
Fountains of youth
Ambergris, musk and civet
The perfumed glove trade
The eroticism of leather
Nothing new under the Sun King?
Drawing death's sting
The great animal slaughter
Chapter seven: Civilising floral essences
The perfume revolution
Luxuriating in baths of scent
Sensual faces
Bodily hair care
The scent of powder
The emperor's perfumer
Conclusion
Bibliography
A note on quotations
Principle manuscript sources
Primary sources
Selected bibliography
