Full Description
Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and preoccupations of the society that produced it.
A Cultural History of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design and the other visual arts over the last 150 years.
This new edition includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather.
Contents
Introduction
1.The Commercialization of Fashion
Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century
Social Implications of Dress
The Rise of Haute Couture
Charles Frederick Worth
The Rise of Consumerism
The Social Equalizer of the Department Store
2.The Artistry of Fashion
Artist-Led Workshops
Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century
Paul Poiret: King of Fashion
The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny
Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours
Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion
3.The Democratization of Fashion
Changes in Commerce and Social Structure
The Art of Fashion Advertising
Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes
Coco Chanel: Pauvreté De Luxe
Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal
Fashion and Functionalist Theory
Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism
Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Prêt-À-Porter
4.The Americanization of Fashion
Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work
Fit and Function
Piracy in Fashion
American Couture
The 'American Look' in Ready-to-Wear
Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits
Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier
Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits
5.The Popularization of Fashion
Haute Couture Following the Second World War
Christobal Balenciaga
Christian Dior
Yves Saint Laurent
André Courrèges
Pierre Cardin
Clothing and Popular Culture
The Swinging '60s in London
Mary Quant
Alternative Fashion
Zandra Rhodes
Laura Ashley
6.The Postmodernization of Fashion
Postmodernism in Fashion and Art
The Rejection of Fashion
Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration
Fashion and Music
Anti-Fashion as Feminism
Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo
Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage
Contextualization
7.The Deviance of Fashion
Franco Moschino
Viktor & Rolf
Martin Margiela
Alexander McQueen
Harajuku Street Fashion
Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction
The Reinvention of Menswear
8.The Lifestyle of Fashion
American Sportswear Designers
Ralph Lauren
Calvin Klein
Donna Karan
Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing
Fashion as Ideological Billboard
Street Style on the Catwalk
9.The Corporatization of Fashion
Global Conglomerates
LVMH: The Super Syndicate
Luxury Heritage Branding
The Designer as Product
Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation
Perfume: A License to Make Money
The Death of Haute Couture?
Counterfeit Chic
Ecommerce and Online Shopping
10.The Sustainability of Fashion
The Origins of Disposable Fashion
Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour
Sustainable Alternatives
Green is the New Black
Vintage Clothing as Recycling
Other Sustainable Approaches
Ethical Concerns
11.The Digitization of Fashion
Virtual Couture
Technology in Fashion: A brief history
Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century
Hussein Chalayan
Iris van Herpen
Fashion as Future and Fantasy
Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion
Conclusion
Notes
Glossary
Bibliography
