Full Description
Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?'
Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.
Contents
List of Figures
Acknowledgements
Time in Fashion: An Introductory Essay - Caroline Evans and Alessandra Vaccari
Section I: Industrial Time
1. The Murderous, Meaningless Caprices of Fashion - Karl Marx
2. The Acceleration of Fashion Change in the 18th Century - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
3. The Temporal Architecture of Fashion: Its Seasons and Weeks - Aurélie van de Peer
4. Threadbare Dandy Fashion - Jules Barbey-d'Aurevilly
5. The Pace of Fashion - Georg Simmel
6. My Best Work is Done Only When I am Under Pressure - Mary Quant
7. We're Stuck Between the Old and the New Rhythm - Christophe Lemaire
8. New Fashion Media and the Acceleration of Fashion Time - Agnès Rocamora
9. Standard Minute Value (SMV) for a T-Shirt - Ramij Howlader, Monirul Islam (Rajib), Tanjibul Hasan Sajib, Ripon Kumar Prasad
10. Fashion, Fast and Slow - Kate Fletcher
11. Subverting the Seasonal Construct - Samuel Patrick Thomas
Section II: Antilinear Time
12. Jetztzeit and the Tiger's Leap - Walter Benjamin
13. Illusion Tulle and La Dernière Mode - Stéphane Mallarmé
14. The Evaporation of Temporality - Ulrich Lehmann
15. Fashion, Femininity and Modernity - Ilya Parkins
16. The Residue that History has Discharged - Siegfried Kracauer
17. Colonial Time - Victoria L. Rovine
18. The Historical Mode - Richard Martin and Harold Koda
19. Cuttings and Pastings in the Archive - Alistair O'Neill
20. Martin Magiela's Carnivalized Time - Francesca Granata
21. Quotations: The Past and Future of Fashion - Angelo Flaccavento
22. Vintage Fashion and Memory - Heike Jenss
Section III: Uchronic Time
23. Fashion, A Time Which Does Not Exist - Roland Barthes
24. Sovereign Time - Patrizia Calefato
25. The Art of the Perfect Moment - Barbara Vinken
26. Fashion is Now and Tomorrow - Karl Lagerfeld
27. Made in Italy and Double Vintage - Simona Segre Reinach
28. Final Adjudication on Two National Press Advertisements for Louis Vuitton - Advertising Standards Authority
29. I Have Seen Her in the Mirror - Elsa Schiaparelli
30. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations - Miuccia Prada
31. Doppie Pagine - Anna Piaggi
32. The Otherworldly - Greg French
33. Fashion Fabulation: Serpica Naro at Milan Fashion Week 2005 - Ilaria Vanni
34. Queer Time - Emma Katherine Atwood
35. Miss Haversham - Charles Dickens
36. The Simultaneous Dress - Paola Colaiacomo
Bibliography
Index
