Full Description
Clothing may not make the man (or woman), but it helps. How clothing as a vestige and artifact and as transmitter of identity moves from one use to another, from one fantasy to another fad, from one literary source to another visual one: these are the concerns of the essays in this volume.
The second in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Exchanging Clothes focuses on the concept of transnational "circulation and exchange"-not only the global exchange of material commodities across time and space but also of the ideas, images, colors, and textures related to fashion. Essays examine the parade of heroes past, from Homer and Virgil to Dante and Ariosto, wearing armor or nothing; the social power of a tie or of a safety pin sprung from punk fashion to the red carpet; a Midwestern thrift store, from cheap labor to cheap purchase, as a microcosm of global circulation; and lesbian pulp fiction as how-to-dress manuals.
Whether looking at Kate Chopin's silk stockings, Nellie Bly's capacious bag, Audrey Hepburn's cross-Atlantic travels, rings in James Merrill's poetry, or feminine ornaments in Algeria, these essays offer an ever-expanding vision of how fashion moves through culture and the economy, reflecting and determining identity at every stage and turn of the transaction.
Contributors: Nello Barile, IULM U, Milan; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, Sapienza, U of Rome; Alisia Grace Chase, SUNY, Brockport; Chafika Dib-Marouf, Jules Verne U, Picardie; Anne Hollander; Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia); Andrea Mariani, Gabriele d'Annunzio U, Chieti-Pescara; Katalin Medvedev, U of Georgia; Laura Montani; Karen Reimer; Cristina Scatamacchia, U of Perugia.
Contents
Contents
Preface and Acknowledgments
Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade
Introduction. Walking the Walk: Circulation and Exchange
Paula Rabinowitz
1. Accessory Questions
Laura Montani
2. Krizia and Accessories
Mariuccia Mandelli
3. The Dress of Thought: Clothing and Nudity in Homer, Virgil, Dante, and Ariosto
Anne Hollander
4. Orbits of Power: Rings in James Merrill's Poetry
Andrea Mariani
5. Sheer Luxury: Kate Chopin's "A Pair of Silk Stockings"
Cristina Giorcelli
6. Traveling Light: Nellie Bly's All-Inclusive Bag
Cristina Scatamacchia
7. Like Their First Pair of High Heel Shoes: Continental Accessories and Audrey Hepburn's Cinematic Coming of Age
Alisia Grace Chase
8. Word-Processed for You by a Professional Seamstress
Karen Reimer
9. Slips of the Tongue: Lesbian Pulp Fiction as How-to-Dress Manuals
Paula Rabinowitz
10. A Safety Pin for Elizabeth: Hard-Edge Accessorizing from Punk Subculture to High Fashion
Vittoria C. Caratozzolo
11. A Knot to Untie: Social Power, Fetishism, and Communication in the Social History of the Tie
Nello Barile
12. Ornaments and Feminine Clothing Tradition in Algeria; or the Identity Quest
Chafika Dib-Marouf
13. It Is a Garage Sale at Savers Every Day: An Ethnography of the Savers Thrift Department Store in Minneapolis
Katalin Medvedev
Coda: Speaking Out and Speaking Up: The Circulating Power of Fashion
Cristina Giorcelli
Contributors
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