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Now a fishing village on the Coromandel Coast of India, Tranquebar was once the chief Danish colony in Asia. Intrigued by its dual identity, the author spent a winter there with her baby son, and describes it today - a village reclaimed by an India that appears careless of its legacy, its history, its decaying colonial buildings now occupied by rich Muslims and rival Christian missions, and even of the Hindu temple that is slipping into the sea.
