海洋表面波：物理学と予測（第２版）<br>Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (2nd Edition) (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) （2ND）

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海洋表面波：物理学と予測（第２版）
Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (2nd Edition) (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) （2ND）

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  • 製本 Paperback:紙装版/ペーパーバック版／ページ数 692 p.
  • 言語 ENG
  • 商品コード 9789814460118
  • DDC分類 551.463

Full Description

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

Contents

Introduction; Interaction of Wind and Ocean Waves; Spectral Properties of Ocean Waves; Statistical Properties of Ocean Waves; Properties of Breaking Waves; Prediction of Waves in Deep Water; Prediction of Waves in Shallow Water; Freak Waves; Tsunami; Waves at Islands and Coral Reefs; Waves in Mangrove Forests; Wave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous Bottom; Wave Observations and Long-Term Statistics; Wave Measurement Techniques; Data Processing and Simulation Techniques.