The Fire Escape Is Locked for Your Safety : On the Road in the Former Soviet Union

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The Fire Escape Is Locked for Your Safety : On the Road in the Former Soviet Union

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  • 製本 Paperback:紙装版/ペーパーバック版/ページ数 208 p.
  • 言語 ENG,ENG
  • 商品コード 9781882897650
  • DDC分類 914.70486

Table of Contents

Introduction                                       ix
Glossary xi
Foreword xvii
PART I: UKRAINE AND BELARUS 1 (36)
Ukraine 3 (1)
The Twelve Thousand Mile Journey Begins 3 (6)
Belarus 9 (1)
Dog Days in an Oppressed Country 9 (4)
Disaster in the Subway Entrance 13 (2)
Do I Have to Smuggle My Own Money? 15 (2)
Long Lines at the Opera House 17 (3)
The Train to Grodno 20 (4)
The City Bus 24 (1)
Hotel Belarus 25 (5)
Nightmare at Customs 30 (7)
PART II: THE BALTICS 37 (16)
Lithuania 38 (1)
The Patriotic Schoolteacher 38 (2)
Latvia 40 (1)
The Frightened Pensioner 40 (2)
The Not-Quite-Post-Soviet Waiter 42 (2)
The Country House 44 (3)
Sunday in the Country 47 (1)
Estonia 48 (1)
Optimistic Youth 48 (3)
To Finland 51 (2)
PART III: THE FAR NORTH 53 (30)
Finland 54 (1)
North to the Arctic Circle 54 (2)
Lapland: Land of the Midnight Sun 56 (1)
Russia 57 (1)
The Back Road into Russia 57 (2)
Military Murmansk 59 (2)
Kizhi Island 61 (2)
Milking Tourists in Saint Petersburg 63 (4)
The Fed-Up Railroad Man 67 (3)
``The Constitution Does Not Apply to Us'' 70 (2)
Moscow Bureaucrats and a Tough-Talking 72 (5)
Retired Military Man
The Nuclear Engineer-Turned-Security Guard 77 (2)
The Dacha 79 (4)
PART IV: THE GOLDEN RING 83 (32)
Travel Logistics Can Be Challenging 84 (6)
The Best Hotel in Town 90 (3)
Those Noisy Church Bells! 93 (1)
Through the Countryside to Kostroma 94 (2)
A Comfortable Ride to Suzdal 96 (3)
Idyllic Suzdal 99 (3)
The Stalinist Librarian 102 (7)
Religious Revival 109 (3)
Heart Trouble in Paradise 112 (3)
PART V: THE VOLGA 115 (44)
Stalingrad 117 (1)
Fire-Safe in Volgograd 118 (2)
Evening with the Trendsetters 120 (2)
A Hot, Dry Day 122 (3)
Full Boat Going North 125 (2)
Red Tape and Heavy Arms in the Deep South 127 (13)
Up the Volga River 140 (2)
The Volga Boatmen-Turned-Entrepreneurs 142 (2)
The Volga Sewer 144 (2)
River Life in the Southern Desert 146 (3)
How the First Steward Lines His Pockets 149 (2)
Rainy Days on the River 151 (2)
Tatarstan 153 (3)
A Leninist True Believer 156 (3)
PART VI: THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD-WEST 159 (22)
The Urals 160 (3)
Travelling Third Class 163 (3)
The Heart of Fly-Over Country 166 (2)
Self-Reliant Family and Neighbors 168 (5)
Schoolteachers Turned Fish-Mongers 173 (3)
The Uncultured Peasant 176 (3)
Hitchhiking to Irkutsk 179 (2)
PART VII: TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD-EAST 181
Scientists Riding the Rails 182
Buryat Senior Citizens 183
The Frisky Nurse 185
The Longest Leg of the Journey 186
The Russian Far East 190
All Foreigners Are Alike 192
The End of the Line 193
Souvenirs With a Hidden Price Tag 194
Coming Home 195
Sidebars
Water Shortages 5
Yuri's recipe for ``Ablondzhiri'' (Red 6
Pepper Chutney)
Sanatoria on the Black Sea 7
To Protect and Serve 14
American Money 19
Train Safety 22
Hotel Registration 26
Hot and Cold Water 29
Network of Rivers 45
The Little Nation That Can 48
Old Traditions Reborn 50
Expensive Finland 54
Dachas 69
Metropolitan Moscow 73
Corruption and Bribery 76
The Golden Ring 84
Hot Water 87
Postal Service 97
Garden Plots 100
Stalingrad 116
Drinking Water 144
Collective Farms 148
A Vast Northerly Continent 158
Vladimir Putin's Rise to Power 162
Lake Baikal 169
Buryatia 184
Dead Souls 189
Tea on the Train 192